I have by now filled our chest freezer with locally-raised meat for the coming year: beef and lamb; two dozen chickens; pork sausages and bacon. There are many pleasures to be had from buying one’s meat from local farmers. First is the pleasure of knowing that the animals are raised humanely, out of doors and on pasture, the way nature designed them to live. A happier animal is a healthier animal, and that translates to better quality meat. And it is satisfying to know that I am helping my neighbors in a very small way to keep the farm. Another pleasure is that I can choose, to some extent, the cuts of meat I want. Before the animal goes to the butcher, the farmer sends me by email a “cut sheet”, where I can designate how I want my share of the animal cut and packaged. This requires a bit of education. When we buy our meat at the supermarket, we can remain innocent of where the meat comes from; what cuts come from what parts of the animal, and what the best uses of each cut are. Somehow, it seems more responsible to know a little about the creatures who nourish us. And to have a relationship with the farmer who raises them.
Typically a whole lamb, for instance, will provide leg and shoulder roasts, loin and rib chops, shanks, stew meat, ground meat, soup bones and organs. When I order lamb and beef, I choose cuts that have the bone in when possible, because meat cooked on the bone is juicier and more flavorful than with the bone removed, and the bones can be used later for stock-making. (The rewards are worth the effort of all this planning.) I also order extra suet (the fat surrounding the loins and kidneys) for my winter birds, and marrow and knuckle bones which aren’t generally given out by the butcher unless requested.
Once the wood cookstove is lit, there is hardly a day in our household when the stock pot isn’t simmering.
Meat stocks are highly nourishing and restorative; chicken soup is, after all a traditional remedy for the flu. Not only are broths good for whatever ails us, but they add great flavor to food--be it soup, sauce or braising liquid for pot roasts and stews. And, they are very easy to make.
Ideally you will want to use a variety of bones from different parts of the animal for your stock. Knuckles and feet, for instance, are rich in gelatin; rib, neck and marrow bones impart color and flavor. If you can’t get these, collect and freeze assorted bones from cooked roasts and chops until you have enough to make a pot of stock.
Beef, Lamb or Venison Stock
6 - 8 pounds assorted bones from beef, lamb or venison (including knuckle, neck and marrow bones if available)
½ cup vinegar
2 onions, coarsely chopped
3 carrots, coarsely chopped
3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
several sprigs of fresh thyme, (marjoram, oregano or savory can also be used) or 2 teaspoons dried herbs
1 teaspoon dried peppercorns
1 large handful fresh parsley
sea salt
If using knuckles, feet or marrow bones, place them in a non-reactive soup pot with the vinegar, and cover with cold water. Let stand 1 hour. (The vinegar draws the minerals out of the bones into the water.)
Brown the meaty bones in a roasting pan at 350 with one half of the chopped vegetables for 20 – 30 minutes. During browning baste the vegetables with the fat which accumulates in the pan. Add browned bones and vegetables to soup pot, pour off fat, and deglaze pan: add 2 cups of water to the pan, bring to a boil, and stir to loosen pan juices. Add this mixture to the soup pot with remaining vegetables.
Add more cold water to cover the bones and vegetables by at least 2 “ and bring to a boil. Skim off any brown scum that rises to the surface as the liquid comes to a boil. After the scum has been removed, reduce heat, add herbs and 1 ½ teaspoons of sea salt. Cover pot loosely. Cook at a quiet simmer for 4 – 24 hours. The longer the stock cooks, the richer and more flavorful it will be. (If the liquid is reduced below the level of the bones during cooking, add more water to cover).
Strain stock through a colander, pressing liquid out of meat and vegetables with a wooden spoon. Cool, degrease and strain again through a fine-meshed sieve or cheesecloth. Adjust seasonings, adding salt if necessary.
If you are not planning to use the stock within a week, freeze in pint or quart containers. If your freezer space is at a minimum, boil the stock down to a rich concentrate and freeze in small batches that can later be reconstituted with the addition of water.
Chicken Stock
1 large chicken carcass or 2 – 3 pounds of chicken parts, such as necks, backs, wings and breastbones
gizzards from one chicken (optional)
feet from one chicken (optional)
2 tablespoons of vinegar
1 onion, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
thyme or marjoram, fresh sprigs or dried
1 handful fresh parsley
1 ½ teaspoon sea salt
10 whole peppercorns
Place chicken parts or bones in a non-reactive soup pot with vinegar and vegetables. Cover with water by several inches. Let stand 30 minutes to 1 hour, to draw out minerals from the bones. Bring to a boil, remove scum that rises to the surface, and add the herbs, salt and peppercorns. Reduce heat, cover and simmer gently for 4 to 24 hours. Add water during cooking if necessary.
Strain, degrease and adjust for salt and other seasonings as in the above recipe for meat stocks.
Typically a whole lamb, for instance, will provide leg and shoulder roasts, loin and rib chops, shanks, stew meat, ground meat, soup bones and organs. When I order lamb and beef, I choose cuts that have the bone in when possible, because meat cooked on the bone is juicier and more flavorful than with the bone removed, and the bones can be used later for stock-making. (The rewards are worth the effort of all this planning.) I also order extra suet (the fat surrounding the loins and kidneys) for my winter birds, and marrow and knuckle bones which aren’t generally given out by the butcher unless requested.
Once the wood cookstove is lit, there is hardly a day in our household when the stock pot isn’t simmering.
Meat stocks are highly nourishing and restorative; chicken soup is, after all a traditional remedy for the flu. Not only are broths good for whatever ails us, but they add great flavor to food--be it soup, sauce or braising liquid for pot roasts and stews. And, they are very easy to make.
Ideally you will want to use a variety of bones from different parts of the animal for your stock. Knuckles and feet, for instance, are rich in gelatin; rib, neck and marrow bones impart color and flavor. If you can’t get these, collect and freeze assorted bones from cooked roasts and chops until you have enough to make a pot of stock.
Beef, Lamb or Venison Stock
6 - 8 pounds assorted bones from beef, lamb or venison (including knuckle, neck and marrow bones if available)
½ cup vinegar
2 onions, coarsely chopped
3 carrots, coarsely chopped
3 celery stalks, coarsely chopped
several sprigs of fresh thyme, (marjoram, oregano or savory can also be used) or 2 teaspoons dried herbs
1 teaspoon dried peppercorns
1 large handful fresh parsley
sea salt
If using knuckles, feet or marrow bones, place them in a non-reactive soup pot with the vinegar, and cover with cold water. Let stand 1 hour. (The vinegar draws the minerals out of the bones into the water.)
Brown the meaty bones in a roasting pan at 350 with one half of the chopped vegetables for 20 – 30 minutes. During browning baste the vegetables with the fat which accumulates in the pan. Add browned bones and vegetables to soup pot, pour off fat, and deglaze pan: add 2 cups of water to the pan, bring to a boil, and stir to loosen pan juices. Add this mixture to the soup pot with remaining vegetables.
Add more cold water to cover the bones and vegetables by at least 2 “ and bring to a boil. Skim off any brown scum that rises to the surface as the liquid comes to a boil. After the scum has been removed, reduce heat, add herbs and 1 ½ teaspoons of sea salt. Cover pot loosely. Cook at a quiet simmer for 4 – 24 hours. The longer the stock cooks, the richer and more flavorful it will be. (If the liquid is reduced below the level of the bones during cooking, add more water to cover).
Strain stock through a colander, pressing liquid out of meat and vegetables with a wooden spoon. Cool, degrease and strain again through a fine-meshed sieve or cheesecloth. Adjust seasonings, adding salt if necessary.
If you are not planning to use the stock within a week, freeze in pint or quart containers. If your freezer space is at a minimum, boil the stock down to a rich concentrate and freeze in small batches that can later be reconstituted with the addition of water.
Chicken Stock
1 large chicken carcass or 2 – 3 pounds of chicken parts, such as necks, backs, wings and breastbones
gizzards from one chicken (optional)
feet from one chicken (optional)
2 tablespoons of vinegar
1 onion, coarsely chopped
2 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 celery stalks, chopped
thyme or marjoram, fresh sprigs or dried
1 handful fresh parsley
1 ½ teaspoon sea salt
10 whole peppercorns
Place chicken parts or bones in a non-reactive soup pot with vinegar and vegetables. Cover with water by several inches. Let stand 30 minutes to 1 hour, to draw out minerals from the bones. Bring to a boil, remove scum that rises to the surface, and add the herbs, salt and peppercorns. Reduce heat, cover and simmer gently for 4 to 24 hours. Add water during cooking if necessary.
Strain, degrease and adjust for salt and other seasonings as in the above recipe for meat stocks.
